When I first started doing lash extensions, I remember feeling a little overwhelmed by all of the different curl options. Most importantly, I wanted to choose the best eyelash extension curls for my clients based on their preferences and styles.
As it turns out, it’s not as complicated as it seems.
Whether you’re a lash artist or a client, knowing the differences between the different types of lash curls and when to use them is key to creating the perfect look.
Let’s dive in!
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What Are the Different Lash Curls?
There are 9 standard lash curl types: J, B, C, CC, D, U, L, M, and I. Some, like J lashes, are nearly straight. Others, like U lashes, are so curved they almost curl in on themselves. In between the extremes, we have the more popular B, C, and D curls. Some manufacturers sometimes offer additional or customized curl types.
Let’s dive into the types of lash curls in more detail. Learn what each letter of the lash curl alphabet means, along with a few professional tips and tricks.
A or J Curl
With a barely-there curve, J curl lashes look natural and subtle. Some retailers call them A curl lashes, but it’s less common.
They’re a good option for clients with naturally straight but upwards-pointing lashes. On clients with lashes that point straight or downwards, they create a heavy-lidded look.
B Curl
Still soft, but with more of a curve. B curl lashes are the most commonly-used extensions for a soft, natural look. They’re my go-to for clients with upward-facing lashes, since they still provide that elegant curve without being overwhelming.
C Curl
C curl lashes are the classic choice. They suit nearly every client for any situation. They have a nice curve and lift that opens up the eye without looking extreme, so they look good on nearly every eye shape and natural lash pattern.
CC Curl
Between D and C curls we have the CC curl lash extensions, with an eye-opening, natural curve. These look best on clients with slightly downward-facing or straight lashes, but can also work with upward-facing lashes.
Some sources say that CC and D curl lashes are the same. This depends on the retailer, but usually, there’s a small difference in curvature.
D Curl
Now we’re getting curvy! D curl lashes are very popular with clients that want a dramatic curve and an open-eyed look. They can be too extreme for clients with naturally upward-angled lashes but work well for clients with straight or downward-facing lashes.
U Curl
U curls are the most dramatically curved option. Like the letter U, the ends curve so much that they can face the eyelid rather than upwards. As a result, the lashes look very curly but not necessarily long.
This lash style is most suitable for clients with very downward-facing lashes, especially for creating a unique Barbie or doll-eye look.
L Curl
L curl lashes are shaped to look a little like the letter they’re named after. The base of the lash is flat with a sharp curve that tilts the lashes upward, creating an L-like shape. The result is a sharp look with straight but upward-tilted lashes.
This lash curl style is becoming trendy for creating an extreme cat-eye with a pronounced lift at the outer corner.
If your lashes don’t have a natural curve, the flat base may adhere better than a C or D lash. That said, the base can be too flat for downturned lashes, leading to heaviness.
M Curl
M curl lashes are similar to L curl lashes, but with a shorter flat base. The upward angle starts earlier, for a style that goes nearly straight up. These can be a better choice for clients with downward-angled lashes who want an extreme cat-eye look.
I Curl
The letter I is very straight, and so are I curl lashes. It’s not common that you’ll want to use lashes without any curl, but these can be appropriate for clients (especially men) who want increased lash line density without curves.
C+, D+, Etc.
Sometimes, you’ll also see plus signs added to the letters. The plus sign means the curl is a touch more pronounced than a normal C or D curl. A C+ curl sits between C and CC, while a D+ curl sits between a D and a U.
Lash Curl Chart
A lash curl chart is a helpful tool to reference when trying to decide which curl type is right for you. It can be helpful to see what each curl looks like side-by-side.
Some of the curl names are based on the similarity between the shape of the letter and the shape of the lash. Others are just linear: B curls are straighter than C curls which are straighter than D curls. That’s the beauty industry for ya!
How to avoid confusion? Commit your favorite lash curls to memory or print out this handy lash curls chart.
How to Choose the Best Lash Curl?
Choosing the best lash curl is an art that takes time to develop. It comes down to a few factors: the structure of your eye, the look you’re going for, and the natural lash angle.
1- Natural Lash Angle
- Downward: With downward-angled lashes, curlier lashes will help open up the eyes. Opt for reasonably curly styles like C, CC, and D.
- Straight: A client with straight-facing, horizontal lashes can wear the whole spectrum of curls based on their personal style.
- Upward: With upward-facing lashes, softer curls like J, B, and C are the best choice. The natural lashes will “push” the extensions up, so the eyes will still look open and bright.
- Mixed: Sometimes, different areas of the lash line can have lashes facing in different directions, so using a mix of lash curls makes the most sense.
2- Personal Style
- Natural: For a natural lash extension style, choose the curl most similar to the natural lash pattern. B, C, and CC lashes are usually best.
- Classic cat-eye: Classic cat-eye lash extensions are best created with noticeably curved but not over-the-top C, CC, or D extensions.
- Doll eye: This eye-opening look benefits from curlier lashes like CC, D, and even U.
- Eyeliner/extreme cat-eye: This style mimics the look of sharp eyeliner, so it benefits from pointed lashes like L or M, especially in the outer third of the lashline.
3- Structure Of The Eye
The structure of the eye is also worth considering, to avoid an inappropriate curl poking your lids.
- Deep-set eyes require softer curls like B or C, especially if the eyes are deep in the sockets. With really strong curls, the lashes will touch the brow bone.
- Standard eyes can handle any curl.
- Bulging or protruding eyes are also better enhanced with soft curls since strong curls would make the eye look too open.
4- Glasses
Clients who wear glasses will need a slightly stronger curl, like CC, D, or M. Overly straight lash curls can touch the lenses of the glasses, which will be very disruptive to your client when she blinks. Check out my article about wearing lash extensions with glasses to pick the perfect curl.
FAQ
What is the most common eyelash extension curl?
C curl lashes are by far the most popular. They’re the most versatile and tend to work on the widest range of people for almost every lash style. The slightly softer B curls and more dramatic D curls are also quite popular.
C Curl vs D Curl, which should I choose?
This depends on your style, lash angle, and eye shape. For a natural but still open-eyed look, C curl lashes are a great choice, especially if your lashes naturally angle upwards. If you want more eye-opening drama or if your lashes are angled downward, D curls might be the better choice.
How do you keep eyelash extensions in curls?
Unlike natural hair, synthetic eyelash extensions are designed to hold their curl. Therefore, you don’t have to do anything specific to keep your lash curls.
What’s the most natural eyelash extension curl?
B curl lashes are the most natural looking because they more closely resemble the curvature of your own eyelashes.
Key Takeaways
There are a lot of different eyelash extension curls available on the market today. My most frequently used curls are C, CC, and D but B curls also come into play sometimes.
The naming system can be a little confusing, but once you pick out your favorite curls you’ll have no trouble differentiating.
To choose the best lash extension curls for you or your clients, consider the natural lash pattern, eye shape, and personal aesthetic.
Are you still trying to find the best curls for you or do you already have your favorites? Comment below and let me know! I’ll be happy to help you narrow down your choices.
– Asako 🙂
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