As a client, knowing the difference between mega volume lashes and volume lashes is important in order to understand the service you are receiving. As a stylist, you need to provide a clear and factual answer if you want to build trust and credibility. What’s the difference between mega volume lashes and volume lashes?
The difference between mega volume lashes and volume lashes is how many false lashes are used to create the fan and the diameter of these false lashes. A volume fan uses 2 to 5 extensions with a diameter of 0.05 to 0.07 mm while a mega volume fan uses 6 to 16 extensions with a diameter of 0.03 to 0.05 mm.
This guide will give you everything you need to know about mega volume lashes and the many nuances of volume lashes. You will be able to decide which technique is best for you or your client. I’ll also share pictures of clients to showcase the difference.
Let’s get started!
What Are Volume Eyelash Extensions?
Volume lashes is a technique in which multiplied lash extensions are fanned out and applied to one natural lash (one to many). Volume eyelash extensions allow for a great level of customization to achieve the client’s desired look. This technique will give you a fuller and fluffier lash line.
In the picture below, you can compare a client of mine without eyelash extensions, with a natural volume set and with a divine volume set.
What’s the Difference Between Mega Volume Lashes and Volume Lashes?
The difference between mega volume and traditional volume is the number of false lashes used to create a fan and the diameter of these false lashes. Each mega volume fan uses 6 to 16 false lashes with diameters between 0.03 to 0.05 mm while a volume fan will use 2 to 5 false lashes with diameters between 0.05 to 0.07 mm. Mega volume allows for a denser and darker look look since it uses these light-weight fans with numerous extensions.
How To Calculate Volume Lashes Size & Weight
The appropriate weight of a volume fan is controlled by managing two crucial variables :
- How many extensions can be used to create a fan. This is also referred as “D” for dimension.
- The diameter of the extensions used to create a fan.
A healthy and thick natural lash will be able to bear a heavier volume fan than a thin natural lash. Maintaining healthy lashes should always be your #1 priority.
Let’s dive into an example.
A client with healthy natural eyelashes should handle 0.15 mm diameter classic extensions (only one extension on the natural lash). Using this as a baseline, the same client should also be able to handle the following volume fans;
- Up to 3D volume fans using 0.07 mm diameter extensions.
- Up to 7D volume fans using 0.05 mm diameter extensions.
- Up to 12D volume fans using 0.03 mm diameter extensions.
Relationship Between the Number of Lashes and Diameter
Not too surprisingly, there is a negative relationship between the number of lashes in a fan and the diameter. In order to keep the weight of a fan constant, if the number of lashes increases, the diameter must decrease. If the diameter increases, the number of lashes must decrease.
But how come three 0.07 mm extensions would be equal to one 0.15 mm? Even better, how come twelve 0.03 mm extensions would be equal to one 0.15 mm?
Because of negative space!
What Is a Negative Space in a Volume Fan
Negative space in a volume fan is the space that would otherwise be occupied by a single lash extension when comparing the volume fan to a single extension.
A volume fan created from three 0.07 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (section in gray) when compared to one single 0.15 mm extension. This explains why this volume fan is not heavier.
A volume fan created from seven 0.05 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (section in gray) when compared to one single 0.15 mm extension. This explains why this volume fan is not heavier.
A volume fan created from twelve 0.03 mm extensions creates a lot of negative space (section in gray) when compared to one single 0.15 mm extension. This explains why this volume fan is not heavier.
Are Mega Volume Lashes Safe?
Yes, mega volume lashes are safe just like traditional volume or classic are. However, they are definitely more complex. They require a high level of expertise and experience in order to make sure that the weight of the extension is not too heavy for the natural lash.
Also, not all clients can bear the weight of mega volume lashes. You need very strong natural lashes to support mega volume. As you can see in the “volume fan weight calculation” section of the article, there is a delicate balance between dimension, diameter and even length when creating the appropriate fan.
Moreover, the application needs to be perfect for mega volume lashes to be safe.
How Can Mega Volume Lashes Damage Natural Lashes
The most common mistake is to completely fill all natural lashes regardless of the growth stage they are in. Clients love the initial look but will hate it in 3 weeks. Applying fans on baby lashes will definitely cause damage to the natural lashes.
Unfortunately, I have seen numerous horrors in my career when it comes to mega volume. Last week, we had a client from a different lash artist looking for a mega volume lash fill. In the photo below, you can see the stylist had completely filled ALL the natural lashes including the baby lashes.
Her once full and fluffy lashes are now a (not so hot) mess. The problem is that the same length extensions are applied on both mature lashes and baby lashes.
After a fresh set, they look uniform and beautiful but when they grow out they look like the above. The mature lashes fall out naturally whereas the baby lashes are still growing. In 3 weeks, these baby eyelashes will grow into teenage lashes which will mess up the design, and it could potentially cause damage (extensions that are sticking out are more likely to get caught or prematurely shed).
That’s not to mention the weight that’s on the baby lashes, is the same as the mature lashes. If there is too much weight on a lash it could snap off or weaken.
The second common mistake is improper isolation. When applying a mega volume fan, you need to make sure that the fan is only applied on one single natural lash and that there is no sticky (this is true for any application). Mega volume makes isolation more difficult because the base of the lash line becomes very thick with all the fans. Practice definitely makes perfect here.
“There’s no doubt that a well done mega volume set is stunning, bold, dark and beautiful. These sets take a lot of time, precision and advanced skills. As a seasoned stylist, I can really appreciate the art of mega volume. However, customers should make sure their lash stylist has the required expertise and practice before going ahead with a mega volume set.Asako Ito
How to Achieve Density Without Damaging the Natural Lashes
Fill the mature lashes with volume fans having the maximum length and weight complimenting the clients natural lashes. Then, fill in the teenage lashes with shorter length and smaller weight complimenting the natural lashes. As the teenage lashes grow and reach a mature length, they will still remain within the design. They will simply be replaced at the next fill
After discussing with the client above, I gave her a everyday volume set that would not damage her lashes and maintain its design after 3 weeks. The before and after picture is shown below.
How Long Do Volume Lashes Last?
Volume lashes will last from 3 to 5 weeks without any issue. Don’t believe that your lashes can still look fabulous during week three as they did on day 1? Take a look at this 3 week retention photo. Here you can see there was minimal loss after 3 weeks AND they still look even. They are all within the design and her lashes look healthy- and will continue that way!
Check out our article How Long do Eyelash Extensions Last for a complete explanation and the conclusion of our research (we analyzed 1100 clients).
The world of eyelash extensions has exploded! You can get your lashes done around the world, and virtually every city has salons that offer eyelash extensions. This is where quantity and availability do not match quality.
Unfortunately, due to the popularity of extensions, everyone is either training or being trained. Applying eyelashes is an art and takes time and practice. Proper application is the key to not damaging your client’s lashes.
Standard training is often only a couple of days, and then Lash Artists are certified and start applying on friends and family and sometimes start charging right away! In two days, you cannot perfect applying lashes, isolation or retain all the knowledge that you need to make it safe to
apply extensions on others. To become a trained professional takes time, patience and practice.
You can find even more photos on retention, lash rescues & transformations on our Instagram & Facebook!