Asako’s Take:
– Classic lash extensions use a 1:1 ratio of extension to natural lash for a timeless and natural look.
– Volume lash extensions use a 1:n ratio of multiple extensions per natural lash for a dense lash line and bold look.
– Hybrid lash extensions blend the classic and volume techniques, with a customizable 70% volume and 30% classic ratio. This achieves a naturally gorgeous look with added fullness.
As a lash artist, the most common question I get by far is:
“What’s the difference between classic, hybrid, and volume eyelash extensions?”
And then, it’s always followed by:
How do I choose the right one?
I wanted to write this in-depth guide to answer these questions. I’ll also show you pictures of my clients for each technique.
That way, you’ll be able to come to your lash appointment with a good idea of what you like.
That’s always helpful during our initial consultation 🙂
I also recorded the video below if you want to listen while you read.
What Are Classic Eyelash Extensions?
Classic eyelash extensions are applied at a ratio of 1:1. That means one eyelash extension is added per natural lash one after another to fill the lash line.
It extends your eyelashes which gives the illusion of a fuller lash line while keeping it looking natural.
Most of my clients who wish for a natural-looking appearance that’s subtle and elegant will opt for this technique.
In the picture above, I’ve applied classic lashes to the left eye and nothing on the right eye. As you can see the look is beautiful and elegant. Almost as a very good coat of mascara.
Length
For classic lashes, I’ll generally use extension lengths ranging from 8 mm to 12 mm.
As a rule of thumb, the best length is around 2 mm longer than your natural lashes.
This ensures that the extensions will still look natural without being too heavy for the natural lashes.
Thickness
Today there are various thicknesses of extensions used for the classic technique. I use thicknesses from 0.07 mm to 0.15 mm.
To put things into perspective, here’s a list of the weight of one lash extension for various thicknesses:
- 0.07 mm is 0.00006 g
- 0.10 mm is 0.00010 g
- 0.12 mm is 0.00013 g
- 0.15 mm is 0.00015 g
- 0.18 mm is 0.00025 g
- 0.20 mm is 0.00030 g
As you can see, larger extension diameters correspond to increased weight.
Why is this concept so important?
Because your natural lashes can only support a given additional weight added to them. Should you go beyond that weight, the natural lashes will be damaged and can shed prematurely.
I’ve seen classic sets done with thicker extensionso than 0.15 mm. In all cases, it lead to damaged natural eyelashes.
If you want to learn more about this, I’ve written a detailed article on how eyelash extensions may damage natural eyelashes.
Who Should Choose Classic?
The majority of my first-time clients choose classic.
That’s because it offers the most natural look. It’s as though you have a very nice mascara with some added length.
You can always opt to add more density later with hybrid or volume refills.
However.
Some clients have very sparse and thin natural eyelashes.
In such cases, adding lightweight fans makes more sense to get that fuller look.
I’ll cover the volume technique in a second!
Cost
At Divine Lashes, the classic sets start at 150$ for a natural fullness level.
You should know that the cost price varies greatly based on where you live.
I’m very curious so I did something wild…
I compiled pricing data from dozens of eyelash salons across the U.S.
In this study, I found that classic lashes cost $164 on average to do a full set while the minimum rate is $80 and the maximum price is $375. For classic refills, the average cost is $71 with the minimum being $30 and a maximum of $160.
Make sure to check out all the details of my study on how much eyelash extensions cost.
Pros
In my opinion, why would someone choose classic eyelash extensions?
- Quickest: Lash techs only have to affix one extension per natural lash for the classic set unlike volume lashes or hybrid lashes. This saves time and gets the job done quickly by an experienced artist.
- Cheapest: When it comes to the total number of eyelash extensions used, the classic set uses the least number of extensions while volume and hybrid use double or triple the number of fake lashes. Therefore, the cheaper cost of material for the salon (fewer synthetic lashes are being used) combined with the simpler technique results in classic lashes being cheaper than hybrid or volume lashes.
- Natural: This is the most important advantage of this type of extension. If you want to achieve a natural look with eyelash extensions, the classic set is for you.
- Most Available: The first thing most lash techs learn to do is a classic set so you can go to any certified lash artist or salon to get this style done.
- Soft look: The classic style uses a ratio of 1:1 for an extension to a natural lash and hence it gives an uncrowded look to your lashes. This style mostly adds length to your eyelashes.
- Good for daily wear: Classic lash extensions are perfect for professional spaces, office, cooking, cleaning, or just around the house.
- Most comfortable: When you think of it, it might seem better to get a single extension per eyelash than say, sixteen of them on most of your natural lashes. Regardless of the style you use, a good eyelash extension artist attaches extension equaling a healthy total weight per natural eyelash.
Cons
And why would someone not choose classic eyelash extensions?
- Common: A classic set is the most popular and basic treatment you can get done with eyelash extensions there is, but that doesn’t mean this style is any less customized. There are many styles available like cat eye, dolly, and natural sweep.
- Not fluffy enough: There’s no denying that hybrid or volume lashes will give you that extra Oomph.
- Not good for everyone: If you have thin or sparse natural eyelashes, classic is not the best choice. It doesn’t allow for filling the gaps like a volume fan can.
Pictures
Let me know in the comment section if you would like to see more pictures and I’ll add them to the gallery!
What Are Volume Eyelash Extensions?
Volume eyelash extensions use more than one extension per natural lash in what is called a “volume fan”.
They guarantee a dramatic look with fluff and drama.
Volume is an advanced technique of eyelash extension which requires a great deal of skill and expertise to perform.
Typically, a volume uses 2 to 5 extensions per fan while a mega volume uses 6 to 16 of them per fan. You can learn more about the difference between volume lashes and mega volume lashes in this article.
How Are Volume Lashes Different?
The two most important characteristics that differentiate volume lashes from the other techniques are:
#1 Ratio: Volume eyelash extensions are applied at the ratio of 1: many. That means several eyelash extensions are added per one natural lash. The eyelash extensions are bundled together in a volume fan before getting applied to your natural lash.
A lash tech uses 2 to 16 lashes per fan on individual lashes. The ratio is decided by the extent of the voluminous effect you want. The total number of extensions per fan is referred to as 2D, 3D, 5D, 7D, 10D, etc.
In the picture below, you can see this concept in action. Notice that on the left, you have a single extension attached to a natural lash. On the right, you have a 4D fan attached to a natural lash.
#2 Thickness: A volume set uses several lash extensions in every fan and the thickness of each extension is generally lesser than that of a classic set.
Lash techs generally use false lashes of sizes ranging from 0.05 to 0.07 mm for standard volume sets and 0.03 to 0.05 mm for mega volume sets.
For instance, a 10D fan might use extensions of 0.03 mm each, a 4D fan of 0.05 mm each, and a 2D volume fan extension of 0.07 mm each.
The total weight of the fan depends on the strength of your natural eyelashes too. If the fan is too heavy, damage may be caused to your natural lashes.
I have shared a detailed calculation example in the article “Mega Volume Lashes Vs Volume Lashes” on how to calculate the maximum weight of a volume fan a client can support.
Who Are Volume Lashes Best For?
Volume lashes work the best for those who prefer glam makeup to a natural one. It’s a great choice if you have thin, weak, or sparse eyelashes too because volume lashes aren’t as thick as classic lashes.
Most clients prefer it for special events like proms, weddings, and anything big before committing to everyday wear.
Those who have a habit of strip lashes would prefer volume extensions over the classic style.
However, if you prefer a more natural look that simply adds a little “je ne sais quoi” then classic lashes would be a better option for you.
Cost
For a volume set, the cost per full set is higher than a classic set because it requires more time and total lashes.
Moreover, not every lash tech is experienced doing volume lash extensions. That’s because a volume eyelash set is an advanced skill that costs a lot besides requiring good experience.
On average, it costs $227 across the country for a full set. The lowest price of getting volume eyelash extensions is $113 with the maximum being $400.
But if you’re going for a refill, the average rate is $95. Keep in mind that the minimum cost of a volume refill is $40 and $275 is the highest you’ll have to pay for it.
If you would like to know more about these numbers, I did a case study where I compiled pricing data from dozens of eyelash salons across the U.S here.
Pros
Why choose volume lash style for your eyelash extensions?
- Extraordinary look: Volume lashes and mega volume sets work differently for special occasions where you want to look amazing. It’s a popular style with brides these days because volume lashes last for the bachelorette to honeymoon and even more days.
- Add a dash of drama: If you like a little drama, volume lashes are the best way to make your eyes look dramatic. Make sure to convey it to the lash tech so that they can make your eyes look exactly as dramatic as you want.
- Fuller lashes: Several lash fans are added to each natural lash which can help fill gaps if you have sparse lashes. You get fine and fluffy lashes that make you look gorgeous all the while.
Cons
Why not choose volume style for your lash extensions?
- Long process: Volume lashes require the creation of fans before applying them to your natural lash. Making a new fan is a sophisticated step and on top of that, a volume set requires a good number of fans. That’s why it takes more time to put them on as opposed to doing the classic lash set.
- Might be too much: For an everyday look, volume and mega volume mightn’t work well for a lot of people. Unlike classic lashes, volume lashes aren’t a good fit for a large number of professional spaces too. For example, volume eyelash extensions for nurses or those in food production might not be accepted.
- Most artists aren’t experienced: beginner lash artists aren’t experienced enough to follow the nuances of doing this set such as keeping the weight of fans light. You can get around this by getting a well-experienced lash artist to do the set!
- Expensive: As it takes more lash extensions, time, energy, and skill to do a volume set, it’s 1.5x costlier than the classic set. But it can be a one-time commitment or trial before going back to the classic set or hybrid set.
Pictures
Let me know in the comment section if you would like to see more pictures and I’ll add them to the gallery!
What Are Hybrid Eyelash Extensions?
One of the newest lash treatments available today is the hybrid style. In this, classic and volume styles of lashes fuse into one to create a hybrid variety that customizes your eye even better than either style.
Hybrid lashes can look naturally gorgeous when done correctly by an experienced lash tech. They’re also called mixed set lashes in some salons.
How Are Hybrid Lashes Different?
The two most important characteristics that differentiate hybrid lashes from the other techniques are:
#1 Ratio: As we have already seen above, classic lashes use a ratio of 1 extension to 1 natural lash while volume lashes use a ratio of many extensions to 1 natural lash.
That’s why for the hybrid set, the density can vary between the two styles and ultimately depend on the look you want.
Typically, eyelash techs go for 50-50 or 70% volume and 30% classic in a hybrid set.
Oftentimes, lash techs ask you whether you want the fluffy lashes in the middle or towards the corners. Each option creates a different look altogether.
For instance, when you add volume lashes in the middle, it creates an open-eye look. If you add volume to the inner and outer corners, it will appear to contour your eyes and taper them.
#2 Thickness: As a hybrid lash set combines the thicknesses of both volume and classic sets, the thicknesses vary accordingly too.
Your lash tech may use thicknesses of 0.07 mm, 0.10 mm, or even 0.15 mm for the classic lashes that will be applied or thicknesses of 0.03 mm and 0.05 mm for volumes lashes that will be applied.
That being said, we generally don’t use more than 5D fans on hybrid sets at Divine Lashes.
Why not go above 5D fans you may ask?
Well quite simply because then what’s the point? If you desire 5D + fans in a hybrid set, maybe a volume set altogether would be more appropriate.
Who Are Hybrid Lashes Best For?
If you’ve moderately long and healthy lashes, hybrid lashes are the way to go. That being said, hybrid lash treatment works wonders on those with thin or weak lashes too.
Truth be told, the hybrid lash style is best for clients who want to try the volume set or the mega volume lash set but hesitate to.
If you’re wondering the same while being comfortable with classic sets, then this is the best way to upgrade your look.
The hybrid set is a great opportunity to try out a little bit of fluff and add fullness during the process. It’s also more customized than either volume or classic lash extensions.
Cost
The time required to do a hybrid set of eyelash extensions is less than the volume set although it uses up more than the total extensions used in a classic set.
That’s why the cost of hybrid lash treatments across the country is somewhere between the cost of classic and volume lashes.
On average, a hybrid full set costs $192 per session. The lowest cost for this eyelash treatment is $100 and the highest is $345.
If you’re going for a hybrid refill, it can cost $84. While the minimum is $55, the maximum can shoot up to $220 per session.
If you would like to know more about these numbers, I did a case study where I compiled pricing data from dozens of eyelash salons across the U.S here.
Pros
What are the reasons to get a hybrid lash treatment?
- Not too simple, not too dramatic: You can get a natural look with a tint of drama.
- Best of both worlds: You get the benefit of volume and length in one lash set.
- A good way to try before volume set: If you don’t want to get the fullness of regular volume right away, then hybrid is a natural upgrade from classic lashes. If you feel unsatisfied with classic lashes, see gaps between them, or your workspace doesn’t accept a bold style like volume lashes too, hybrid works well.
- Perfect for those with lash issues: If you’ve sparse lashes and want a dramatic look, hybrid lashes are a healthy option for your eyelashes.
Cons
What are the reasons why you shouldn’t get a hybrid eyelash extension style?
- Needs an experienced lash tech: Not every lash artist can do a good hybrid set. You need someone who is experienced with both the styles classic and volume so that they can personalize a look that best frames your eyes.
- Has a high price: It’s more costly than classic eyelashes. But that’s because they demand more time and skills. At the same time, hybrid lashes are cheaper than volume lashes too.
- Lengthy application time: Just like volume lashes, the hybrid set also needs the lash artist to make unique fans for your eyes. Hence, it can easily take over two hours to do a full set.
Pictures
Let me know in the comment section if you would like to see more pictures and I’ll add them to the gallery!
Classic vs Hybrid vs Volume Lashes (Summary Table)
| Classic vs Hybrid vs Volume | Classic | Hybrid | Volume |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ratio | One-to-one (1:1) | One-to-one (1:1) for spikes One-to-many (1:n) for fans | One-to-many (1:n) |
| Thickness | 0.07 to 0.15 mm | 0.07 to 0.15 mm (for spikes) 0.03 to 0.07 mm (for fans) | 0.03 to 0.07 mm |
| Cost | Least expensive | Average | Most expensive |
| Time to apply | Fastest | Average | Longest |
| Styling | Most natural | Balanced | Most dramatic |
| Skills required | Basic | Advanced | Advanced |
I tried to summarize the differences between the 3 techniques in this handy table.
FAQ
Final Thoughts
I hope this guide helped you choose between classic, hybrid or volume lashes for your next appointment 🙂
If you’re wondering which one would be best for you, let me know your question in the comments below and I’ll get back to you!
~ Asako 🙂
What a nice super informative article. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words!
Thank you for the explanations. You present yourself as a real professional
Thank you so much for your kind words Pat. It means a lot and motivates me to publish more articles like this one.
Hi, for more mature women, it seems that volume and length at the outer eye brings your eye down. Is it better to use shorter lashes there, or to limit extensions at all on the outer edge?
Thanks for your help🙂.
Hi Margie,
You are correct. For more mature women it’s generally better to choose shorter lengths and stronger curls on the outer corner of the eyes. I generally recommend the open eye (or dolly) style.