Key Takeaways
- Cluster lashes (also known as flares) are a group of 5-10 false eyelashes bound together at the base with a small amount of glue.
- Cluster lashes will cause damage because they are heavy and the bottom of the fan is wide, which means it will attach to several natural eyelashes at once, interfering with the natural growth cycle.
- Volume fans are much safer than cluster lashes since they are lighter and applied to one single natural lash at a time.
As a lash artist, I’ve seen the horrible damage cluster lashes can do, and I wanted to make sure it doesn’t happen to you.
If your lash tech still uses this very outdated technique, you need to run as fast as you can. And if you’re into DIY lashes, there are much safer alternatives.
What Are Cluster Lashes?
Cluster lashes (also known as flares) are a group of 5-10 lashes bound together at the base with a small amount of glue. They allow for a much quicker application time since you are essentially gluing a “fan” of lashes rather than one at a time.
They actually originated from cutting a “strip lash” into smaller pieces and adhering it to the eyelid skin.
This type of lash extension was popular over 10-15 years ago but has now been replaced with much safer alternatives for your natural eyelashes.
Some salons and uneducated eyelash stylists still use this technique today, but thankfully, it’s becoming increasingly uncommon.
Today, cluster lashes are generally sold in packs at beauty supply stores and are meant to be a temporary option.
Here’s an example of what cluster lashes look like.
You typically have 5 to 10 fairly thick extensions of 0.15 mm diameter, tied together at the base. The fan-shaped “flares” were glued onto 2 to 3, sometimes more, natural lashes.
For example, using 10 clusters that are made of 10 thick extensions would result in 100 extensions attached to one eye.
It was a quick way to achieve great density in a short period of time.
Many lash techs were using them because it would increase the number of clients they can take and thus revenue.
Everything was beautiful under the sun. Or maybe not…
Why They Are Bad for You
Back in the day, the eyelash extensions industry was still new, and most eyelash stylists had no knowledge of the eyelash growth cycle.
Then, reality started to kick in…
Thinning of the lash line, gaps, natural lashes falling out, etc…
So what was causing this?
Because the base of a cluster lash so wide, it always get glued to multiple natural eyelashes at once. When the cluster lash falls off, it will pull out natural eyelashes, causing thinning and bald spots over time.
And let’s not talk about how heavy these things are!
Way too heavy for a delicate eyelash.
No matter what technique one uses, flares will cause thinning of the lashes if a client were to wear them continuously for a few months.
Cluster Lashes vs Individual Eyelash Extensions
Volume lashes, like cluster lashes, are multiple eyelashes attached together to form a fan.
The resemblance ends here…
Volume fans are much safer than cluster lashes since they are lighter and applied to one single natural lash at a time.
A volume fan uses 2 to 5 extensions with a diameter of 0.05 to 0.07 mm and could even use 6 to 16 extensions with a diameter of 0.03 to 0.05 mm for mega volume.
This means the total weight of a volume fan is much smaller than the weight of a cluster eyelash fan.
Moreover, volume lashes have a much stronger and longer bond time. As you can see in the picture below, a volume fan will surround the natural lash and therefore enjoy a higher surface bonding area.
On the other hand, cluster lashes will not surround the natural eyelash. Instead, they are simply glued on a surface.
Finally, volume fans give a much cleaner finish than cluster lashes.
So, are you ready to ditch those cluster lashes and switch to volume fans?
Check out our selection of quality volume lashes. We have several diameters, curls and lengths to craft the perfect custom fan.
Pro Tip: Check out my complete guide on volume and mega volume lashes here!
Real-Life Horror Story
I cannot tell you how many times we’ve heard:
“You guys were fully booked, so I went elsewhere because I didn’t want to not have lashes!”
“I was desperate for lashes, so I went to a salon near my place…”
“I needed lashes for an event, and so I went to this place in the mall.”
“I thought doing them at the nail salon would be convenient because I would get everything done in one place.”
And every single time I make similar discoveries. Flares are used as “volume fans”, getting lashes applied with their eyes being pulled open (true story coming soon)…
A messy application…
Damage that will take months to repair.
A client came to Divine Lashes and had a similar comment to the ones above and resorted to a different salon.
I immediately knew that she had visited elsewhere.
Many of her natural lashes were damaged. Here’s a picture of a flare we removed for her. You can see how thick and healthy this thing is!
This is not a fan.
We repeat: this is not a volume fan!
Well, this is not a proper fan, and this is also a sticky. So this was glued onto one natural lash. You can see they look pretty bulky because they are thick.
Her natural lashes are indeed damaged, (sad face) and we had to remove her “fans” so her natural lashes would not be further damaged.
Her natural lashes did recover in two months, and she was able to continue getting volume extensions.
Pro Tip: Read my article “Do Lash Extensions Damage Your Lashes? 5 Worst Mistakes” to learn the main application mistakes lash techs make.
FAQ
The Bottom Line
I hope I was able to express how unhealthy cluster lashes are and why you should seek a qualified lash tech that can apply true volume lashes instead.
Please let me know in the comments below if you’ve had any bad experiences with these!
For lash techs, did you have to remove them from a client recently?
Let me know – I’m curious to know where the industry is going.
~ Asako 🙂
How to fine lash salon that does volume lashes?
Hi Rita,
Thank you for your comment! Here are a few things you can do when you are looking for a lash place. A referral from a friend is a great way to ask them questions and their experience. Check out their yelp or google business page, you can read through the reviews from other customers. You can also visit their website to get more information such as their values, services offered etc. I hope you’ll find a great place for your lashes!
Divine lashes located in Canada, I’m in California.
Hey Rita,
Thank you for your comment! That’s right, we are a located in Toronto and Montreal in Canada! 🙂
Yah not on Philly
I’m glad to know this technique is not used in Philly 😉
I’m a lash technician at Sara’s nail salon in East Bay Area in California. And I totally agreed that cluster is not healthy for your lashes. Individual give you more natural look as long as you have enough lashes to use. And volume sure give you the glam look
Hey Uyen,
It’s awesome to get another lash stylist view on cluster lashes. Hopefully no one will use them ever again.
I’m a lash tech and I’ve never had a client come in with clusters. If they did how would I even remove them?
In recent years its rare to have clients come in with cluster lashes. If the clusters were applied with eyelash extension adhesive, you can either use a gel remover or a cream remover. Make sure that the clients eyes are closed the entire time. Coat the base of the cluster extensions with remover generously on the front and back. The remover should be applied without touching the skin. Allow that to sit for about 5 minutes, this will soften the bond. You will need to be patient as you will need to tackle the clusters layer by layer. Continue to reapply the remover as you need it! In my experience, a removal of a full set cluster lashes took me approx. 45 minutes! I hope this was helpful 🙂
I just removed my cluster lashes. So many of my lashes came out and I took my time… it took forever and I couldn’t prevent them from coming out. Thank you for this information!! I need to seek a professional here in Oregon. No more cluster lashes for me.
Hi Kelly,
Yes honestly they are evil.