What Are Lash Extensions? The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide

I’ve been in the lash industry for over a decade now and have seen the rise of lash extensions firsthand.

There are so many options, styles, and alternatives to choose from that it can sometimes feel like a jungle if you’re getting extensions for the first time.

So, if you’re getting started, this article is for you.

I wanted to create the most comprehensive guide that covers all the basics so that you feel confident and informed before taking the leap.

A bold claim, I know.

The False Eyelash Market

Did you know that there are several types of false eyelashes you can choose from?

Generally speaking, we can divide the market into 5 categories:

• Individual lash extensions: These extensions are applied a professional lash artists to your natural lashes one-by-one using medical-grade adhesive. They are commonly referred to as “eyelash extensions” or “lash extensions” and are semi-permanent.
• Strip lashes: They are a full strip of fake lashes attached to a flexible band that is glued to the eyelids. They are often referred to as “False Lashes” or “falsies”.
• Cluster lashes: They are a group of 5-10 false eyelashes knotted together at the base. They are also called “flares”.
• Magnetic lashes: Similar to strip lashes, they also use a strip of fake lashes attached to a band. However, the band has tiny magnets which means you can sandwich your natural lashes between the two magnetic strips, without any glue needed.
• DIY lashes: A band of fake lashes separated into several segments that can be applied at home with a more gentle adhesive. They mimic the look of professional lash extensions and are applied from below the lash line.

In this guide, I’ll focus strictly on individual lash extensions.

How Do Eyelash Extensions Work?

This type of extension can only be applied by a certified lash technician. The application goes like this:

1. Isolation: Your lash tech will use a pair of tweezers to very precisely isolate one single natural eyelash.
2. Pick one extension: Using the other hand, we then pick one single extension (or several into a fan for volume) from the lash tray and dip the base into the adhesive.
3. Attach the extension: We then gently make contact between the extension and the natural lash until the adhesive binds them together. The extension never touches the skin.
4. Repeat, repeat, repeat: This process is repeated for your other natural lashes until your lash line is full of extensions.

You might find that it seems like a rather simple thing to do.

But let me tell you that there’s a lot more than meets the eye (pun intended).

There’s a lot of precision and skill involved to make sure the health of your natural eyelashes is never compromised.

Also, a lot of knowledge and experience goes into selecting the right styles, types of extensions and techniques that will compliment your eyes.

This is what we’ll discuss next.

Techniques: Classic Vs Hybrid Vs Volume

Confused about the industry jargon?

Classic lashes, hybrid lashes and volume lashes are the 3 main techniques lash techs use.

Let’s clear it up.

Classic Eyelash Extensions

Classic lashes refers to one single extension per natural lash in a 1:1 ratio. This technique adds length and is the most natural-looking option. It’s perfect for those who want a subtle enhancement.

Volume Eyelash Extensions

Volume lashes uses several extensions per natural lash in a 1:many ratio. This technique adds a lot of density and fullness to the lash line. It’s great for those who want a dramatic look or have sparse natural lashes.

Hybrid Eyelash Extensions

Hybrid lashes are a mix of the classic and volume techniques in a ratio that can typically vary from 30-50% classic lashes and 70-50% volume lashes. Clients who want the best of both worlds without too much drama will love their hybrid set.

Styles

Are you wondering what lash style to go for?

Don’t worry.

Your lash tech will help you make that decision based on your types of eyes, your bone structure, your eye positioning, and the growth direction of your eyelashes.

Most of my clients will choose one of the four styles below.

Natural

This style enhances your natural lashes by adding length evenly across your lash line.

We follow the natural lengths and patterns of your lashes and simply extend them by a few millimeters.

it’s generally done with classic lashes, but can also be achieved with volume.

It’s perfect for those who want a subtle, everyday look.

Cat Eye

This is easily the most requested look in my salon.

We use longer lengths to the outer corner of the eye to elongate them which creates a lifted effect that resembles a cat’s almond-shaped eye.

Doll Eye

This style uses the longest lash extensions towards the middle of your eyes.

This will create a wide-eyed, doll-like look that opens up and rounds out the eyes.

It compliments hooded and monolid eyes perfectly.

It’s also particularly good if you have a sharp arch to your eyebrows.

Natural Sweep

The natural sweep uses shorter lengths for the inner corners of the eye and adds the same length throughout the rest of the lash line.

It works beautifully to elongate the eye, but not as much as a cat-eye would.

What Are Extensions Made Of?

There are many variants of extensions, but the 5 most important characteristics that define them are:

• Material
• Length
• Curl
• Diameter
• Color

I’ll briefly explain each one, but if you want a more detailed explanation, make sure to read my article on what are lash extensions made of here.

Material

The extensions can either be made of natural fibers or synthetic material.

Synthetic lashes are the most common type by far. They are made of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), a type of polyester.

Natural fibers range from mink, silk, sable and fox. They are rarely used in lash salons because of their many disadvantages (I discuss them in this article).

Length

Lash extensions come in a variety of lengths, ranging from 6mm to around 18mm.

The most popular lengths are between 9mm to 13mm, which is very close to the average lengths of natural lashes. This help to create a natural look that blends well.

Curl

There are many, many, many curls to choose from depending on the curl of your own natural lashes.

You can typically find extensions with I, J, B, C, CC, D, CC, DD, U, L, and M curls.

Out of them, the C and CC curls are the most popular ones. They add just a slight lift to the lash, without making it look too dramatic or curled.

Diameter

The diameter refers to the thickness of the extension and is calculated in millimeters.

It typically ranges from 0.03mm up to 0.25mm or more.

We usually use the thinner extensions for volume when we want to create a volume fan (0.03mm and 0.05mm) while thicker diameters would be reserved for classic lashes.

Color

Black is the most common color by far, but there are also options to choose from such as brown, ombre, blonde and even colored lashes.

You can play with hues of red, pink, green, blue, orange, purple, white and gold to create unique looks for a very special occasion.

Cost

In my case study of lash extension prices in the U.S., I found that eyelash extensions cost on average $164 for classic lashes, while a refill will cost you $71.

But keep in mind.

Many factors will influence the price you’ll pay.

The technique (classic vs hybrid vs volume), the total appointment time, the experience level, and the location of the salon, will all affect the cost.

Also, I would shy away from going for the cheapest option.

It’s important to remember that these are semi-permanent treatments, and a less expensive option may not be worth the risk in the long run.

I’ve seen my fair share of clients get burnt by salons that promise cheap lash extensions but use poor-quality materials and poor technique which can result in damage to the natural lash.

What About Damage?

I get asked this quite often.

The truth is, while lash extensions are safer and painless than ever now, a poorly done job can lead to clumping of lashes, premature shedding, and loss of natural eyelashes.

For instance, if the lash artist selects extensions that is too heavier for your natural lashes, they will end up shedding faster because of the added weight.

Techs can also glue extensions to multiple natural eyelashes, preventing their growth and movement, leading to further damage.

So, how do you avoid all this?

A reputable lash artist will have this to a science and select extensions with the right length and diameters that your natural lashes can support safely.

In fact, some of my clients have been coming for several years uninterrupted and their natural lashes are as healthy as ever.

Thankfully, the lash industry has evolved a lot over the years and I don’t see terrible jobs as often as I used to.

Your First Appointment

Here’s a checklist of the most important things to keep in mind for your first visit.

• Consult first: Always have a long chat with the lash artist who will work on you to relay your preferences first. This will help the technician design a custom style for you.
• Wear comfy clothes: You’ll be laying down for a long time (maybe 1 to 2 hours depending on what style you selected). Make sure you’re comfy.
• Make a playlist: If you find music relaxing, create a playlist and take your favorite earbuds.
• Remove your makeup: We can’t apply the extensions if you have eye makeup on. You’ll be asked to remove it so it’s best if you do it beforehand.
• Disclose your allergies and do a test: Always share your seasonal allergies, past allergic reactions as well as cosmetic allergies with your lash tech. You can also do a patch test.
• Take off your contacts: You’ll be asked to remove you contacts before the appointment due to safety concerns and because your eyes will be closed for a long time.
• Turn your phone on silent: A good way to limit distractions is by placing your cell phone on silent mode. This is respectful for your lash tech but also for any other clients in the treatment room.
• Go to the loo before you start: You don’t want to interrupt the application process because you have to go empty your bladder. This will take some of your allocated time away. So it’s best to go before your session.
• Understand the procedure: Don’t be shy to ask your lash tech anything about the service you’re about to receive.
• Take before-after pictures: Don’t forget to snap a few before-after pics of your lashes too!

How Long They Last

Eyelash extensions typically last 3 to 4 weeks.

Since every extension is attached to an individual natural lash, as the natural lash sheds, so does the extension.

Therefore, the extensions last as long as the natural lashes to which they are attached don’t shed.

I surveyed my clients to see how often they came for refills on average (see the survey here).

60.1% come in for a refill in three weeks, 20.6% every two weeks, 16.7% every four weeks, and 2.7% after four weeks.

Aftercare

Properly take care of your extensions once your leave the salon is the #1 factor in how long they last.

Here are some tips to help you maintain them:

• Cleaning: First off, you need to clean your eyelashes daily with a compatible cleanser. Make sure to use a lash shampoo that is oil-free.
• Brushing: Combing your dry lashes will prevent them from tangling and avoiding clumps.
• Curling: In general, it’s best not to curl your lashes when you have extensions. If you absolutely must, you can use a heated curler (never a mechanical one).
• Keep off the eyes: It’s best to avoid rubbing or scrubbing your eyes harshly as it can cause extensions to shed early.
• Refill: Getting a refill every two to three weeks allows you to reduce the cost of doing repeated full sets and also maintains a beautiful lash line.
• Hairdryer: To dry your lashes, never use the hairdryer on the hot setting and always go for the cool setting. That being said, you could also let them air dry on their own.
• Avoid oils: These are notorious for degrading the lash adhesive and causing poor retention. You need to be careful of which cosmetics you use around the eyes.
• No salts: Swimming in the ocean requires extra care and some preventive measures if you want your extensions to remain beautiful.
• Sleeping etiquettes: It’s aways best to sleep on the back with extensions. You should also replace your cotton pillow covers with a soft fabric like silk or satin to reduce friction on your lashes.

The Bottom Line

I hope my guide helped you navigate the sea of information in front of you.

I tried to cover everything a new client would want to know before making the decision to get their lashes done.

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to write to me in the comments below. I’m always happy to help.

— Asako