When I first discovered flat eyelash extensions, I was immediately impressed. They have several benefits and I regularly use them for clients that have thinner and more delicate lashes but still want to achieve a dramatic look with some density.

I wanted to write this guide to cover everything I’ve learned from using flat lashes.

So if you want to keep up with innovative products in an industry that’s constantly changing, this article is for you!

Let’s dive in!

READY FOR A LASH ARTIST FUTURE? Discover the Classic Lash Online Course for all the knowledge and techniques you need.

What Are Flat Eyelash Extensions?

Imagine if someone were to cut out the top and bottom of a circle, leading to a concave top and bottom — that’s basically the shape of a flat lash extension. They have a lot less bulk, so they’re significantly lighter than regular lash extensions, but they appear to have the same width when examined head-on.

Ellipse lash extensions almost always have a split tip, which lends them a slightly fluffier look. This split tip is something I didn’t fully appreciate at first but now that I’ve used it for my clients, I can see what a difference it makes.

Flat Lashes vs Classic Lashes

So why would you want to use flat eyelash extensions anyways? Here are some of the pros and cons of flat lashes when compared to regular classic lashes.

Pros:

• Less heavy: They can be 40%-75% lighter than classic lashes depending on the brand. For clients with extremely delicate lashes, this can be a game changer.
• More dramatic: They give you the ability to create thicker, more dramatic-looking classic sets than you’d be able to create with regular lash extensions. The lashline will also seem a little darker thanks to the continuous look created by the flat base.
• Easier to apply: The flat base of ellipse lashes adheres to the natural eyelash a little more easily. However, flat lashes can only be attached from the top or bottom, while classic lashes give you the flexibility of also attaching to the sides.
• Better retention: They have a wider surface area that connects with the natural lash, so they can have slightly better retention than classic lash extensions. That said, the main driving factor behind refills is the shedding of natural lashes, so this is a minor difference.

Cons:

• Increased inventory cost: Your regular lashes can be used for both classic and volume sets. For example, since I only use hand-made fans as opposed to pre-made fans for my volume sets, I only carry classic extensions in my inventory in all diameters, lengths, and curls.
  
  However, if I start offering flat lashes, I essentially have to double my inventory and now carry these extensions in all diameters, lengths, and curls as well. This increased cost really adds up.

How to Choose the Right Flat Eyelash Extensions

When I choose the best flat lash extension for my client, I use the same governing principles as when I choose regular lashes. In a nutshell:

• Length: can be extended by approximately 2 mm. Therefore, a 10 mm natural eyelash requires a 11 mm flat extension since 1 mm of space is left at the base of the eyelash (the extension never touches the skin).
• Curl: That’s a decision mostly based on the styling the client desires (cat-eye vs doll-eye vs natural, etc).
• Thickness: the diameter of the extension is based on the diameter of the natural eyelash and what weight it can support. The only difference is that flat extensions let you use a slightly thicker diameter than your client’s lashes would normally be able to accommodate. This isn’t a license to go wild, though — you can jump up by 0.01 or 0.02 mm at most. You never want to apply an extension that’s much wider than your client’s lashes, even if it’s lightweight.

How to Apply Flat Lash Extensions

Applying flat lash extensions is nearly identical to applying any classic set. The only difference is that flat extensions will only adhere to the top or bottom of the lashes, because of their flat base — that means no sideways applications.

This video from Yoyis Lash&Beauty shows just how simple it is to use these ellipse lashes:

FAQ