When I first discovered flat eyelash extensions, I was immediately impressed. They have several benefits and I regularly use them for clients that have thinner and more delicate lashes but still want to achieve a dramatic look with some density.
I wanted to write this guide to cover everything I’ve learned from using flat lashes.
So if you want to keep up with innovative products in an industry that’s constantly changing, this article is for you!
Let’s dive in!
READY FOR A LASH ARTIST FUTURE? Discover the Classic Lash Online Course for all the knowledge and techniques you need.
What Are Flat Eyelash Extensions?
Flat eyelash extensions, also known as ellipse lash extensions, are extensions with a flatter base. They are lightweight and have a larger bonding area (120 degrees) when compared to classic lashes (60 degrees) which makes them more durable.
Imagine if someone were to cut out the top and bottom of a circle, leading to a concave top and bottom — that’s basically the shape of a flat lash extension. They have a lot less bulk, so they’re significantly lighter than regular lash extensions, but they appear to have the same width when examined head-on.
Ellipse lash extensions almost always have a split tip, which lends them a slightly fluffier look. This split tip is something I didn’t fully appreciate at first but now that I’ve used it for my clients, I can see what a difference it makes.
Flat Lashes vs Classic Lashes
So why would you want to use flat eyelash extensions anyways? Here are some of the pros and cons of flat lashes when compared to regular classic lashes.
- Less heavy: They can be 40%-75% lighter than classic lashes depending on the brand. For clients with extremely delicate lashes, this can be a game changer.
- More dramatic: They give you the ability to create thicker, more dramatic-looking classic sets than you’d be able to create with regular lash extensions. The lashline will also seem a little darker thanks to the continuous look created by the flat base.
- Easier to apply: The flat base of ellipse lashes adheres to the natural eyelash a little more easily. However, flat lashes can only be attached from the top or bottom, while classic lashes give you the flexibility of also attaching to the sides.
- Better retention: They have a wider surface area that connects with the natural lash, so they can have slightly better retention than classic lash extensions. That said, the main driving factor behind refills is the shedding of natural lashes, so this is a minor difference.
- Increased inventory cost: Your regular lashes can be used for both classic and volume sets. For example, since I only use hand-made fans as opposed to pre-made fans for my volume sets, I only carry classic extensions in my inventory in all diameters, lengths, and curls.
However, if I start offering flat lashes, I essentially have to double my inventory and now carry these extensions in all diameters, lengths, and curls as well. This increased cost really adds up.
How to Choose the Right Flat Eyelash Extensions
When I choose the best flat lash extension for my client, I use the same governing principles as when I choose regular lashes. In a nutshell:
- Length: can be extended by approximately 2 mm. Therefore, a 10 mm natural eyelash requires a 11 mm flat extension since 1 mm of space is left at the base of the eyelash (the extension never touches the skin).
- Curl: That’s a decision mostly based on the styling the client desires (cat-eye vs doll-eye vs natural, etc).
- Thickness: the diameter of the extension is based on the diameter of the natural eyelash and what weight it can support. The only difference is that flat extensions let you use a slightly thicker diameter than your client’s lashes would normally be able to accommodate. This isn’t a license to go wild, though — you can jump up by 0.01 or 0.02 mm at most. You never want to apply an extension that’s much wider than your client’s lashes, even if it’s lightweight.
How to Apply Flat Lash Extensions
Applying flat lash extensions is nearly identical to applying any classic set. The only difference is that flat extensions will only adhere to the top or bottom of the lashes, because of their flat base — that means no sideways applications.
This video from Yoyis Lash&Beauty shows just how simple it is to use these ellipse lashes:
How long do flat lashes last?
Flat lashes will last between 2 to 3 weeks. They offer better retention than regular extensions, but you’ll still need to come in for refills as your natural lashes shed.
Do most salons offer lash extensions with flat lashes?
No. A lot of salons carry flat lash extensions, but they’re not in the majority. If you’re interested in getting a set of flat lashes, call the salons in your area to see if they carry them.
What are flat lashes made of?
Flat lashes are almost exclusively synthetic and made of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT).
The Bottom Line
There are a lot of products in a lash stylist’s arsenal, but your lashes are the undeniable stars. A lot of stylists will do just fine with a good selection of regular extensions, but flat eyelash extensions are still worth considering.
If you have a lot of clients with thin, delicate lashes who prefer more dramatic looks, flat extensions will seriously upgrade your classic sets!
But remember that flat lashes still have their drawbacks. They’re not as versatile as classic lashes, and they may force you to double your inventory since you can’t use them to create volume lash sets.
So as always, take your personal preferences and your client’s needs into account when deciding which lashes to carry.
If you have any questions about this innovation, comment below! I’ll be happy to give you advice based on your particular situation or clientele.
– Asako 🙂
Life Is Short, Your Lashes Don’t Need to Be
Enhance your natural beauty with stunning lash extensions or a gorgeous lash lift. Click the button to book your appointment online today.
Asako Ito is the Co-Founder of Divine Lashes and a certified eyelash stylist. She has garnered acclaim for her cutting-edge techniques in the lash industry.
Holding multiple certifications and licenses, including Luxury Eye, THE LASH SHOP, World Microblading, and The Lash Bible, she has a constant thirst for knowledge. These credentials reflect her commitment to excellence and staying at the forefront of lash and brow artistry.
With over 10 years of experience, Asako continuously increases her knowledge both as a technician and educator by collaborating with top lash artists worldwide. You can read her full bio here.