Spikey extensions are incredibly trendy these days! Depending on how you style them, they can create a fluttery, wispy look or an edgy, sexy one. Knowing how to create spikes for lash extensions is a must if you want to be a versatile lash stylist.
Ready to learn exactly what lash spikes are and how to make lash spikes out of volume lashes? If so, read this post!
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What Are Lash Extension Spikes?
Spikes are long individual lashes or closed volume flares that add texture to a shorter set of lash extensions. Spikes are longer than the base of the set and distributed at equal distances across the lash line. They can be added to any type of lash extension, including classics, volumes, and hybrids.
You can create spikes using only classic lashes – all you need to do is distribute a few longer lashes throughout your set. For a volume set, you’ll want to apply closed-volume fans that are a little longer than the majority of volume fans.
I explain the actual process of applying the spikes in my guide to wispy lash extensions.
How to Make Spikes With Volume Lashes
This first method is simple and beginner-friendly, so give it a try if you’re still at the beginning of your lashing journey.
1- Separate With Primer
For this method, you’ll need your lashes, a lint-free applicator, lash extension primer, tweezers, and adhesive. Dip your applicator into the primer, and then gently run it over the tips of the lashes. The primer will help them to clump together initially.
2- Remove from Row
Use your tweezers to separate out a small clump of lashes, and pull them off of the row. As you’re pulling them off, make sure they stay together and that the tweezers don’t accidentally cause them to fan out.
3- Dip in Adhesive
Dip the base of your lash spike in adhesive, and gently wipe it off on the ridge of your container or ring to remove excess glue. This will also help ensure the base stays closed.
4- Map and Apply
Finally, you can place your lash spikes in a container for later use or use them right away following a wispy or spikey lash map.
If you’d like a visual aid, this video from LBK does an excellent job of presenting this method:
This method is a little more advanced, but it’s easier once you have the experience and control of your tweezers.
1- Grab Lashes on An Angle
To start, prepare your lashes in front of you, along with a pair of tweezers, and lash adhesive inside a dispenser or glue ring.
Separate out the number of lashes you want to use in your spikey fan with your tweezers. Then, angle your tweezers so that they pinch the lashes closed as you grab them.
2- Remove From Row
With the tweezers still pinching the lash cluster, pull the lashes forward and off the strip.
3- Dip in Adhesive
Finally, dip the base of the lashes into the adhesive. Then, run the lashes through the ridge on the outer edge of your adhesive dispenser. This will seal the bottom and ensure the lashes spike close nicely.
4- Use or Save
When you’re done, you can use the lash spikes right away or save them for later.
Grabbing the lashes correctly is essential for this method, so watch this excellent video from Zee Lashes to see how it’s done:
Can you use classic lashes to make spikes?
You can definitely use long classic lashes to add spikes to a classic or hybrid set.
That said, never use classic lashes to create a closed-volume fan, as they’re too thick and the combined weight could damage your client’s natural lashes.
How many lashes are in a spike?
A volume lash spike can have anywhere from two to 5 lashes, depending on the thickness of the lashes you choose, what your client’s lashes can handle safely, and the overall style you’re going for. You may find the charts in my guide to eyelash extension thickness helpful.
Where do you put eyelash spikes?
Eyelash spikes should be distributed evenly all throughout the lash line, about an equal distance from each other. To make things easier, you can apply them first, and even use them as “markers” for your lash map.
How much longer should the spike be from the base?
I almost never recommend going longer than 2 mm past the lash line, but spikes are the exception. I generally like to have the spikes be 2 mm longer than the base of the design, so I normally extend the natural lashes by 1 mm and then add spikes that extend by 3 mm. If your client has delicate lashes, you can purchase flat eyelash extensions that will keep the weight minimal.
There’s nothing too complicated about creating lash spikes! They’re incredibly versatile, helping to create both soft, wispy looks as well as dramatic “wet” or “strip lash” extension styles.
Now that you know how to create lash spikes, you can use them with all sorts of different lash mapping styles to create customized lash sets that your clients will adore.
Since applying lash extensions is just as much art as it is a science, remember that the terminology can differ from salon to salon. My final suggestion is that you always confirm with your client what they mean when they use words like “spikey” or “wispy”.
I hope it’s all clear, but if you have any questions – well, that’s what the comment section is for! Leave your questions below and I’ll be sure to answer.
– Asako 🙂
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Asako Ito is the Co-Founder of Divine Lashes and a certified eyelash stylist. She has garnered acclaim for her cutting-edge techniques in the lash industry.
Holding multiple certifications and licenses, including Luxury Eye, THE LASH SHOP, World Microblading, and The Lash Bible, she has a constant thirst for knowledge. These credentials reflect her commitment to excellence and staying at the forefront of lash and brow artistry.
With over 10 years of experience, Asako continuously increases her knowledge both as a technician and educator by collaborating with top lash artists worldwide. You can read her full bio here.