An exquisite set of volume lashes depends on the volume lash fans. As a technician, mastering the fan takes some effort and knowledge, but it will help you grow your skills and income. Are you ready to take on the challenge?
Are you still deciding between premade fans and handmade ones? Would you like to learn how to create your own perfected lash fans? If so, this post will give you all the information you need.
Let’s dive in!
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What Is a Volume Lash Fan?
A volume lash fan is a bundle of synthetic lashes that attaches to a single natural eyelash. Lash fans are used in volume or hybrid sets to create more depth and fluff when compared to classic lashes.
What Makes a Perfect Volume Fan
The perfect volume fan is symmetrical and safe for your client’s lashes. It’ll also give your client the precise look she wants.
The distance between the lashes in the fan and the angle at which they face must be the same. Otherwise, you can end up with a very messy-looking set.
2- The Right Number of Lashes & Diameter
To create a safe fan for your client, you’ll need to determine what her lashes can accommodate safely. That means figuring out which classic lash diameter is appropriate. Then, decide how many lashes you’d like to use per lash fan, and pick a safe lash thickness based on that.
I discuss this in detail (and include a calculator chart to make it truly effortless) in my guide to lash extension thickness.
3- Narrow or Wide Flare
Consider how widespread you’d like the lashes to fan out from one another. A wider fan creates a voluminous but airy look with a lot of criss-crossing lashes and negative space, while a narrower fan creates tight, dense-looking volume.
How to Make a Volume Fan
Technique 1: Lonely Fan Method
This is the easiest, most-beginner friendly technique for making volume lash fans.
- With your tweezers, carefully pick up the correct number of lashes with your tweezers, keeping them tightly collected, and separate them from the strip.
- Place them back on the strip, away from the other lashes.
- With the point of your tweezer, press on the bottom of the fan to spread out the lashes as much as you desire, making sure they’re equidistant from each other.
- Once the fan is perfect, lift them up and dip them in glue (only the bottom 1 mm).
- Finally, apply the lash fan or store it for later!
This quick video from GinnyxBeauty will allow you to visualize the technique:
Technique 2: Rolling Technique
The rolling technique is very speedy, but it’s a little more advanced. Give it a try once you master the lonely fan method, and I think you’ll like it.
- With your tweezers, fan out the correct number of lashes to partially separate them from the rest of the lashes on the strip, but without picking them up.
- Use the tip of the tweezers to create the ideal fan in one continuous rolling motion — this helps you create a symmetrical fan.
- Adjust the shape of your fan if necessary.
- Grab the fan near the base with your tweezers, and pull it off the strip.
- Finally, dip the bottom millimeter of the fan in glue, and use or store it.
Want to see this process in action? Here’s how I bring this technique to life:
Technique 3: Pinching Technique
In the pinching method, you lift your lash cluster completely off the strip and use your fingers at the base to pinch the bottoms together. Then, you release the tweezers to create the fan. This method is a little clunky and slow, so it’s fallen out of use.
If you want to see how it’s done, here’s a great example:
What Are Premade Volume Fans?
Premade volume fans (also called pro-made fans) are mass-produced and purchased in sets. They’re usually available in clusters of 3D to 15D sets, and with various lengths, diameters, and curls.
You can also make your volume fans in advance, but they would still count as “handmade” rather than premade.
Heat-bonded vs glue-bonded volume fans is something you should be wary of. Based on how lash strands are bonded together, there are two types available today: heat-bonded or glue bonded.
- Heat-bonded fans only use heat to fuse the lash extensions at the base.
- Glue-bonded fans on the other hand use a small amount of adhesive at the base to hold the lash extensions together.
Besides the lack of personalization, oftentimes the glue-bonded pre-made fans turn out too heavy because of the additional weight of the glue and may cause damage to the natural lashes.
Premade vs Handmade Volume Fans
Is it better to make your own lash fans or should you buy premade?
Fundamentally, every lash stylist should have the ability to create handmade fans, even if they sometimes use premade ones. The best thing about handmade fans is that lash artists can customize each fan based on the length, density, thickness, curl, and color of your natural lashes.
These are the main deciding factors.
- Handmade fans may take a while, but they’re bespoke and extremely customizable. Knowing how to make them gives you a lot of freedom.
- Handmade lashes make more financial sense. Using exclusively premade lash fans forces you to increase your stock of lashes exponentially since you have to carry them in various combinations (length, diameter, curl, and the number of fibers (or CC). With handmade fans, your classic lashes offer you any number of fan options.
- Premade fans are easy and quick to use since you don’t have to spend any time handmaking a fan. This can be handy if your clients are often in a rush.
- Handmade lashes offer your clients better lash retention.
If you’re a client, know that experienced lash stylists prefer to use handmade fans. Premade fans are often used by beginners. That said, premade fans allow for a faster service so even an experienced stylist may suggest using them if you’re in a rush.
Do premade fans damage lashes?
Not if they’re heat-bonded lashes. Glue-bonded ones, however, add extra weight to the fan and put the client’s lashes at risk.
Additionally, don’t confuse premade fans for clusters designed to be used with false lash glue. Read my post on lash clusters to learn why they’re so harmful.
Can you fan 0.15 lashes?
No. The maximum diameter for safe volume lash fans is 0.07 mm.
How many fans do you need for volume lashes?
You will need between 50 and 100 fans per eye depending on the style your client prefers and what her lash line can handle.
Learning to create volume lash fans is one of the best ways to upgrade your skill as a lash technician. It requires complex artistry and lets you create beautifully customized volume lash sets.
As with all things worth doing, lash fans also take some effort and diligence! It’s important to make symmetrical fans at a size that your client’s lash can safely support.
While premade lash fans can save you time and effort, they’re not a good shortcut for creating volume lashes — they don’t offer you as much creative freedom, and they end up being much more costly than handmade fans.
If you have any questions or you’d like a few more expert tips on volume lash fans, leave a comment. I’ll be here to help!
– Asako 🙂
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Asako Ito is the Co-Founder of Divine Lashes and a certified eyelash stylist. She has garnered acclaim for her cutting-edge techniques in the lash industry.
Holding multiple certifications and licenses, including Luxury Eye, THE LASH SHOP, World Microblading, and The Lash Bible, she has a constant thirst for knowledge. These credentials reflect her commitment to excellence and staying at the forefront of lash and brow artistry.
With over 10 years of experience, Asako continuously increases her knowledge both as a technician and educator by collaborating with top lash artists worldwide. You can read her full bio here.